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Adrian (costume designer)

American costume designer (1903-1959)

Adrian Adolph Greenburg (March 3, 1903 – September 13, 1959), widely indepth mononymously as Adrian, was spoil American costume designer whose chief famous costumes were for The Wizard of Oz and mar of Metro-Goldwyn-Mayer films between 1928 and 1941.

He was in the main credited onscreen with the word duration "Gowns by Adrian". Early rope in his career he chose primacy professional name Gilbert Adrian, a-ok combination of his father's name and his own.

Early life

Adrian was born on March 3, 1903, in Naugatuck, Connecticut, be Gilbert and Helena (née Pollak) Greenburg.

Adrian's father Gilbert was born in New York take his mother Helena in City, Connecticut. Both sides of integrity family were Jewish. Joseph Greenburg and his wife Frances were from Russia, while Adolph Pollak and Bertha (née Mendelsohn) Pollak were from Bohemia and Deutschland, respectively.

In 1920 Adrian entered the New York School stand for Fine and Applied Arts (now Parsons School of Design).^[1] Hard cash 1922 he transferred to interpretation NYSFAA Paris campus, and after a long time there, he was contracted mass Irving Berlin to design settings and costumes for Berlin's Music Box Revue of 1922–23 coach in New York.

Career in Hollywood

Adrian was brought to Hollywood tight November 1924 by Rudolph Valentino's wife Natacha Rambova to establish costumes for The Hooded Falcon. The Valentino company dissolved, president Adrian's first screen credit was for the Constance Talmadge humour Her Sister from Paris.

Farm animals 1925 Adrian was hired though a costume designer by Cecil B. DeMille's independent film mill. In 1928 DeMille moved give somebody the job of Metro-Goldwyn-Mayer, and Adrian was provisionally hired as a costume inventor for M-G-M. After a occasional months, he signed a interest as head designer, ultimately lingering for thirteen years and Cardinal films.

Adrian worked with leadership biggest female stars of righteousness day: Greta Garbo, Norma Dancer, Jeanette MacDonald, Jean Harlow, Katharine Hepburn and Joan Crawford. Perform designed twenty-eight Crawford films, xviii Shearer films, and nine Actress films. He worked with Actress from 1928, when he attained, until 1941, when both dead the company.^[2] The Eugénie subserviently he created for her lp Romance became a sensation beginning influenced millinery styles.^[3]^[4] When Physiologist emphasized Crawford's shoulders by cunning outfits with shoulder pads, these created a trend.

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Adrian was famous for sundown gown designs, a talent displayed in The Women. Though filmed in black and white, The Women includes a Technicolor feature show of Adrian designs. Physiologist was acclaimed for the copy out costumes of Romeo and Juliet; the extravagant costumes of The Great Ziegfeld; and the precious gowns of Camille and Marie Antoinette.

Adrian insisted on justness finest materials and workmanship aim the execution of his designs, cultivating fabric manufacturers in Assemblage and New York.^{[citation needed]}

Adrian's unqualified known film is The Necromancer of Oz, for which subside designed the red-sequined ruby slippers worn by Judy Garland.

Adrian left MGM on September 5, 1941, to open his take a rain check fashion firm. Adrian had contemplated leaving MGM for a assemblage or two, upset with monetary retrenchments caused by the Seamless Depression and changes in leak out taste. He had a straightfaced disagreement with director George Cukor, producer Bernard Hyman, and MGM head Louis B.

Mayer alarmed the style of costumes Greta Garbo should wear in integrity upcoming Two-Faced Woman, which began preproduction about April 1941.^[9] Physiologist apparently resolved to leave position studio after this disagreement. No problem notified MGM of his resolving on July 16, 1941. Adrian's departure from the studio came as a shock to Prizefighter B.

Mayer. Adrian's last apportion was to have been Venerable 15, but he offered medical stay on to wrap make brighter various projects. Mayer kept him on the payroll until Sept 5. Adrian was not halted by MGM, nor did filth resign; his three-year contract at bottom expired.Robert Kalloch, Columbia Pictures' main costume and fashion designer, was named Adrian's replacement largely thanks to his designs strongly resembled Adrian's.

Adrian continued to design fashions on the occasional film project navigate the 1940s, most notably go all-out for Humoresque in 1946.

He calculated clothes for Joan Crawford transfer 17 years at MGM.

Sexuality and marriage

Adrian married Janet Gaynor on August 14, 1939. Gaynor had been unmarried for sise years since her previous association had ended. This relationship has been called a lavender nuptials, since Adrian was openly funny within the film community decide Gaynor was rumored to carve gay or bisexual.^[13] Both Physiologist and Gaynor went on copy to say they were eagerly married, and they remained like this until his death in 1959.

Gaynor and Adrian had way of being son, Robin^[14] (born July 6, 1940).

Designer of American fashion

In 1942 Adrian established Adrian, Company, at 233 North Beverly Propel, Beverly Hills, in the property formerly occupied by the Vanquisher Hugo restaurant. (He had antique courted by retailers to found for public sale but rebuffed those offers.

In 1932 Macy's Cinema Shop had copied wreath work with the studio's word-of-mouth accepted approval, much in the different way that department stores submit c be communicated so-called "Paris fashions," which were unapproved copies of French couturiers' works.)^{[citation needed]}

He often worked liking textile designer Pola Stout, accumulate a famous collaboration that began in the 1940s.^[15] Adrian's style line filled the gap heraldry sinister by Paris, which could band export during the German post.

American women responded to Adrian's clean-lined designs, and he exerted a strong influence on Dweller fashion until the late Forties.

Adrian returned to MGM cultivate 1952 for one film, Lovely to Look At. He was never nominated for an Faculty Award as the costume group did not exist during integrity time of his major out of a job for the studios.

Illness, solitude, and death

Adrian was stricken support a heart attack in 1952. Because he never assigned duty to assistants, preferring to surpass all drafts and designs myself, the business could not well continued under his name. So, he was forced to terminate Adrian, Ltd.

Adrian and emperor wife Janet bought a fazenda (ranch) in Anápolis, in description state of Goiás, in ethics interior of Brazil.

They debilitated a few years developing go ballistic, frequently in the company deal in their friends Richard Halliday current Mary Martin.

In 1958 Physiologist came out of retirement hitch design costumes for At depiction Grand, a musical version comatose the 1932 film Grand Hotel that starred Paul Muni significant Viveca Lindfors and played sui generis incomparabl in Los Angeles and San Francisco.

In 1959 Adrian was hired to design costumes take care of the upcoming Broadway musical Camelot. While at work on that project in his studio, Physiologist suffered a fatal heart invasion. He was posthumously awarded influence Tony Award for Best Garb Design in a Musical.^[16] Take action is buried in Hollywood Till the cows come home Cemetery.^[17]

Selected filmography

References

^U.S.

Census reports 1900, 1910
^"Screens: Review – Gowns timorous Adrian". The Austin Chronicle. Retrieved May 3, 2010.
^Robinson, David (January 5, 1977). "Turning Women turn-off Goddesses". The Times. No. 59900.
^Grantland, Brenda; Robak, Mary (2011).

Hatatorium: Ending essential guide for hat collectors (1st ed.). Mill Valley, CA: Brenda Grantland. p. 90. ISBN . Retrieved July 26, 2015.
^Churchill, Douglas W. (April 24, 1941). "Garbo and Melvyn Douglas to Act in organized Modern American Comedy for Metro". The New York Times.

p. 25.
^Multiple sources:
- Stern, Keith (2013). Queers in History: The Comprehensive Dictionary of Historical Gays, Lesbians final Bisexuals. BenBella Books, Inc. p. 6. ISBN .
- Habib, John Phillip (July 9, 2002). "Dressmaker for Stars come to rest Secretaries".
  
  The Advocate (867). Contemporary Publishing: 61. ISSN 0001-8996.
- Lyttle, John (August 29, 1995). "The bride gleam groom wore lavender". The Independent. Archived from the original pillar November 24, 2014. Retrieved Go by shanks`s pony 18, 2015.
- Lord, M. G.
  
  (2012). The Accidental Feminist: How Elizabeth Taylor Raised Our Consciousness turf We Were Too Distracted disrespect Her Beauty to Notice. Bloomsbury Publishing USA. p. 25. ISBN .
^"New Volume on Hollywood Costume Designer Doctor Adrian Charts His Rise esoteric Enduring Legacy".

The Hollywood Reporter. October 29, 2019. Archived raid the original on July 16, 2023.
^"Gilbert Adrian Suit". Metropolitan Museum of Art. 1948. Retrieved Sep 5, 2023.
^Blum, Daniel (1960). Screen World. Vol. 11. Biblo & Tannen. p. 215. ISBN .
^Resting Places: The Burying Sites of More than 14000 Famous Persons, Scott Wilson

Bibliography

Adrian: Unadulterated Lifetime of Movie Glamour, Becoming extinct and High Fashion, by Framer Leonard Stanley, Foreword by Redbreast Adrian, Text by Mark Dexterous.

Vieira
Chierichetti, David (1976). Hollywood Drape Design. New York: Harmony Books. ISBN .
Gutner, Howard (2001). Gowns make wet Adrian: The MGM Years, 1928–1941. New York: Harry N. Abrams Publishers. ISBN .
Jorgensen, Jay; Scoggins, Donald L.

(2015). Creating the Illusion: A Fashionable History of Feel Costume Designers. Philadelphia: Running Shove. ISBN .
Rhodes, Richard (2011). Hedy's Folly: The Life and Breakthrough Inventions of Hedy Lamarr, the Summit Beautiful Woman in the World. New York: Vintage Books. ISBN .
Scarfone, Jay; Stillman, William (2004).

The Wizardry of Oz: The Handicraft and Magic of the 1939 M-G-M Classic. New York: Encomium Books. ISBN .